Friday, May 23, 2014

Natural Hair: Trending or Taboo?

Frankie Rosso
Managing Editor


    Every morning Rachel Higgins, a Miami-Dade College Bachelors-seeking student, took an hour to do her hair. 15 minutes to wash it, 15 minutes to dry it, 10 minutes to comb through it, and 20 minutes to flat iron it. That’s why she decided to say bye-bye to the perms and flat irons and hello to the locks of love. “One morning I just woke up and decided to cut all my hair off and stop dying it. I couldn’t stand how ugly it would look whenever it was time to get another perm,” said Higgins.

    Since 2010, women of color have decided to go natural to make a statement of identity, it’s less expensive, to grow healthier hair, and to not have to deal with the hassle of having to go through a process similar to Higgins’s. It’s a trend that is becoming more a more popular each day and has started to move from the realm of a political statement to the realm of feasible hair maintenance.

    “Hair, going back to the origins of slavery times, has always been a marker of difference, has been a marker of racial difference,” said University of Delaware Professor Tiffany Gill.

    The Civil Rights era brought about the rise of the Black Power movement, during which black women’s hairstyle, be it an Afro or braids, was seen as a political statement..

    Even in Hollywood, whether it's about wild spirals, loose ringlets or cute coils, Hollywood starlets are turning into curly heads. From Beyoncé, to Tia Mowry, to Rhianna, the natural curly hair look is a trend that has rapidly been expanding and shows no signs of slowing down.

    “I was shy, but it came out in a big personality. My turning point was when I let my hair grow naturally,” said actress Trace Ellis Ross from the hit television sitcom Girlfriends.

    This whole idea about going natural has been trending more and more each day within woman of color. In 2010, Design Essentials started a study to measure the popularity of natural hair. In 2010, 26 percent of woman stopped relaxing their hair. However, in the span of a year, this rose to 36 percent. According to USA Today and Mintel, a consumer spending and market research firm, relaxer kit sales have also dropped by nearly 17 percent since 2006.

    As you walk into a salon, you’ll notice the variety in the different types of hair, as well as the variety in the different styles. But behind all that also lies the question of natural hair and whether or not to take that route when it comes to styling. It may seem taboo for some woman because having natural hair is often perceived as using no products, letting it grow out without care and maintenance, and not treating the damaged hair. But the reality is natural hair is not defined by any of these statements.

    Natural hair is hair in which the texture hasn't been altered by chemical straighteners, including relaxers and texturizers.

    Cyntelia Abrams, a marketing coordinator for hair-company Design Essentials said, “Natural hair has been a movement for several years. What we’re seeing now is a confirmation that this is a lifestyle that is very important to a lot of women.”

    Because this natural hair regime is becoming increasingly popular, it presents a problem to local salon store owners and hairstylists, not only for financial reasons, but because of customer satisfaction.

    “Natural hair can sometimes be the worst hair to style. Many times it’s burnt from flat irons and becomes extremely dry and causes split ends. Usually, the client doesn’t even know it,” said Mercedes Rivera, a North Miami Beach hairstylist and salon owner.

    With issues like these arising, is it ideal to go natural? Is there a ‘right’ way to do it? “It’s hard to satisfy your client when they have to hear that a style they want can’t be done due to the damages,” Rivera adds.

    “In the African American community, an Afro hairstyle is sometimes referred to as "natural," but natural black hair can be worn in many other styles besides a short 'fro,” said Del Sandeen, a natural hair blogger from Chicago.

    There are multiple styles, forms of maintaining, and cuts for different natural hairstyles. Creating and maintaining a natural look goes beyond simply letting it grow out, it requires maintenance and products; to prevent frizz, drying, or breakage.

    “Pressed hair may still be considered natural because once washed, the texture returns to its unaltered state. Colored hair is sometimes considered natural, sometimes not, depending on who does the defining. Some people believe that repeated hair coloring alters the texture, even in a slight manner,” said Sandeen

    This theory of “good hair”, that is, having hair free of chemicals and processes, is an epidemic that is sweeping the nation by storm- from young children, to college students, to Hollywood celebrities.

    Twenty-four year old Christina Patrice said, “I’ve had natural hair pretty much all my life. The only time I ever had a relaxer was when I was around 6 or 7. But growing up, I always had my hair pressed bone straight by my grandma or mom. In high school, I was at the shop every month, getting a fresh press and curl, and I kept this going through college.”

    As a college student, expense put a burden on her finances, so Patrice purchased a flat iron and began to press and straighten her hair herself.

    “I literally burned my hair. I didn’t even know but it all made sense when I realized it started getting dry and crisp. That’s when I realized I had to go natural,” she said.

    A study conducted in the Aveda Institute of Davie, Florida shows that 1 out every 10 woman patrons want a “natural” styling. That is, no relaxers, no keratin, no perms, and certainly no bleaches. According to Aveda’s mission statement, “Aveda continually strives to increase the use of naturally derived ingredients whenever possible.”

    “Though we don’t learn too much about textured hair, we do promote the use of safe and healthy products for good hair maintenance,” said Twenty-two year old Aveda student Brittany Brown.

    Going natural extends beyond growing out your natural roots and not giving your hair a little TLC. “If you want to go natural, it does take work. It’s no stroll in the park, but your scalp will thank you afterwards.” Brown said.

    “I’m just glad I don’t have to deal with waiting a month to feel pretty again. I feel prettier having my hair cut off. I can’t wait till it fully grows out,” Higgins said.

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